As we were coming down into Triacastela this cafe shouted out, have a tinto de virano, so I duly did. It wasn’t as difficult coming down the hill into Triacastela as I remembered, in fact it was fine. The Triacastela Town Trier was still trying to flog walking sticks on the edge of town but we dodged past and walked right to the end of Triacastela. An excellent night’s sleep in the superb Casa David had me up early for a change. With the washing done yesterday and the stretching done, I followed Harry to breakfast. Or at least I thought I had, the big Ginger was still sleeping at 8am!! Another first on the camino. When you leave Triacastela you have the option to go up over San Xil or around the road to San Cristobo throught the woods to Renche and then to Samos. We took the latter. As we left town the boys were harvesting some trees on the edge of town, this watching Harry bang his head on suitably low signposts and the odd cave were less than interesting but after an hour you turn off down to San Cristobo and the walk is superb. Through the woods you go and then you arrive at Renche where the master rooftiler is as creative as they come. They like slate here and they use it well. They also like their cemeteries. As you approach Samos the graffitti artists have adorned the underpass to prove its not just the ancient monastery at Samos that makes you come this way, there’s some modern thinking too. Tractors tried to slow us down going into town but we wouldn’t be blocked and as the sun lit the hazy path we arrived at our pitstop. There was a big crowd at the cafe with many staying in Samos today, Polly and Bruce from Oz, Sheila from England, via the Limousin, Helene and Janice from Ottowa while Bernadette and Andre were going our direction but on the road. Good thing I ate and drank loads as there isnt a stop for 3 hours after Samos. Last time Si and I ended up on the road and it was loud and at times scary as you tire. Harry and I were always going the back roads and we had a great walk but it is longer.
As you leave Samos you follow the road for 500m before crossing it up to the right. You then rise and fall with the yellow arrows through woodland, along very quiet back roads and its beautiful. Your biggest danger however is the conkers. They drop from the trees at this time of year and as you walk along the silent roads and trails the only disturbing sound is a rustle of leaves, then a smack, as another one hits the deck. You keep walking at times getting a bit nervous as the sun is on the wrong side and you know you’re heading east not west, but eventually you reach a juice machine, unfortunately its not working! On and on you walk and when a car finally passes you at 2.30pm you know the siesta is soon. I sent Harry a text and sure enough the car duly passed him. Its always good to know you’re only 15 minutes behind. At long last, a cafe, and we meet Carlos from Asturia and then Maria Jose, our Uruguyan, whose boyfriend is in Scotland at the moment. As usual, after such a long wait for a cafe, the Albergue duly follows, 500m later. Its got juice machines so we fill up again and walk into town singing anything with California in it and replacing it with Caledonia. Its been a long day again for anyone walking near us and poor old Helene has just caught up with Harry. We walk past the first two pensions and then stop at the third. 25 euros gets us a single each with a shared shower and toilet between the two rooms. No snoring, works for both of us! Back down to the bar and guess who rolls into town, take a bow Declan from Dublin. I look down at my ankles and its clear my right one needs a rest but its tough. If I wear the boots, its protected but my leg goes, if I wear the sandals the ankle swells, and looks like the big Iberian hams hanging in the shop, hmmn. Later on I try to take a picture of all these birds flying by, but all I get is another crane!
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