A Trial Seperation

It had been coming for a while now. Every morning I woke up and thought – what will we argue over today.

There were so many subjects to choose from – can you be a true Scotland supporter if you’re snoring when the goal goes in being just one. The answer of course is no, but we could debate it for 10km at least.

Our fellow pilgrims have thought we were joined at the hip which I thought was a bit rich – we’re fat – but he’s like 50m ahead of me – we’re not that fat. I walk slower because I’ve not started smoking again and still bear the scar tissue or stretch marks to show it.

With each day however it becomes clearer the big fella aint horsing it up the hills as fast as once he did, and I just need him to smoke mid-stage so I can pass him.

Let’s face it, its not a race to Santiago – that doesn’t start until we’re 50m away and I suggest he has a fag to give me a head start.

But enough of that what of today’s stage. We made good time out of the Albergue although the altitude loss was a mental issue.

Last night we walked through Puente la Reina to the Albergue at the end of town. What it doesn’t tell you is its 350m up a hill, outside of town, but by the time you’re there going back is no option.

Before I started slapping him senseless for such a long needless walk up boat brae – agaiin – I ran out of strength and merely mumbled.

Lucky for me as this was the best yet. I’d give it 4 stars as there was a swimming pool too, but we did that yesterday.

This morning – for the first time we showered – and what a difference it makes. People smiled back at us instead of the usual scowls.

The muscles being warmed up we left on schedule at 7.20 up and down like the proverbial lift in the Tour Eiffel until we reached Maneru where I dropped the shoulder dodged the big fella and made it to the Fountain.

It was a thirsty gig that 5km. We only climbed 200m but it seemed to be up 300m down 250m up 300m down 250m etc. Also the gravel, give us the tarmac any day.

After that we had a lovely stroll through the trails between vine groves to the village of Cirauqui. A cracking wee place, traditional hill top town. Winding streets not to dissimilar from our own as we head from the grassmarket or cowgate to the castle. The biggest difference being the smell.

The streets were being hosed and water rushed past our feet all the way up – I suggested to Si he could wait to fill his bottle – but his legendary patience won out. As I say the smell got stronger the closer we got to the top of the town. Yep, I think it was an outdoor toilet being hosed down after the carnival the day before. Very effective though all the rubbish just gathhered at the outskirts of the town!

As we tottered our way down to the bottom of the other side of town we were met by a strange sound indeed. “…and they sang Shang a Lang as they ran with the gang singing…..” All these school kids wearing kilts. What’s going on we thought, but more of that later.

The next few kms were beautiful – as we sauntered along skinny riverbank fields full of big healthy looking peppers – we knew they were destined for the Spanish markets – no chance Sainsburys or Tesco were laying their hands on them – no poly tunnels just 7 lines about 600m long.

We broke off from this to head under the motorway – their sign said 70 to logrono – ours 76 – crows fly, cars drive and Pilgrims piss a lot oops sorry Pilgrims meander – such is the way of the camino!

We followed the motorway for a bit then double backed on ourself to head on up about 200m to a town called Lorca. It was jumping. There were 6 pilgrims sitting in the shade of the church and getting cocky I tried to remember which were French for “bonjour”, which were Spanish for the “hola” and of course good morning for the Americans.

A bit further on in the town was the fountain. Gathered here were some Spanish Pilgrims – peregrinos – and a cycling one. The biking peregrinos are tricky wee shits. Everyone else behind you has a click click of the stick but these assasins steal up on you then ring their bell and make your muscles ache as you jump out the road too slowly.

I decided to fill my bottle and change my shirt which was soaking – fat boys sweat more. The fountain offered me the chance to rinse the smelly one and use Simon’s string to make a head band for the now clean and soaking shirt to hide my reddening neck and face.

As we wandered out of Lorca you reach the Albergue and the street hustlers – free internet 8 euro – double rooms single room – but we were on a mission and we still had 10 km to go.

Through the vineyards we went to villatuerta. We passed three germans just short of town – I’d already started summising that they were Amercians – – mean you don’t get to that size eating Apple Strudel do you. Well how wrong you are Al, how wrong you are. Fools rush in – and your hardly a site for sore eyes from the rear yourself!

You enter the town through the new estates that have been built and greet a few pilgrims in the plaza – whilst filling your bottle at the fountain you kick one of their dogs by mistake – well not really – we’re not that brave!

As you trawl on round there’s a lovely church with a St James statue outside. ” There are 15th century frescoes inside” I mentioned to Si. “Aye, and so has the next one, come on our lunch is getting warm!”

And on and on we went. Along trails again that have been battered hard and fast by centuries of peregrinos, that or the cement they make up at Zubiri.

We finally enter Estella – one close call as Si set of down stairs to nowhere. These waymarks can be very misleading but the rules are basically follow your nose and don’t leave the path your on unless its a big sign! The signs are arrows or red and white marks and if put at a jaunty angle – as one would wear a trilby – they can be open to misinterpretation. But we followed our nose and now we are here. 114 beds in dorms of 12. Mixed showers are a laugh though. To be honest you don’t care because your hot and sweaty and you just want a shower. Now I’m clean I can see the sense in making them all female for 15 mins then all male but such is the way of the camino!

But we followed our nose and now we are here. 114 beds in dorms of 12. Mixed showers are a laugh though. To be honest you don’t care because your hot and sweaty and you just want a shower.

Now I’m clean I can see the sense in making them all female for 15 mins then all male but such is the way of the camino!

Cheers

Al