Day 12. Al with his ‘ i’m a celebrity get me out of here’ face.

Day 12. Cultural pic fans. The church at saint juan de ortega.

33% its official!

It might not be a pass but its a full third of the way and the ailments are few, the spirits even fewer and the cash burned!

Hey! You can’t have everything.

Today it seems we did. We had the 1000ft ascent into the Montes de Ora where the bandits used to hide, then a gentle stroll across the top where we got snapped next to the – Carios – monument to 1936 and the Spanish Civil War.

Then we strolled down to St Juan de Ortega. St John of the Nettles. Apparantely he was good at help childless couples, not much changed in a 1000 years ‘fnar fnar’, but he was also famous for his nettle soup a speciality they still sell today. I only know one place in our land that still grows nettles specifically for soup but that’s another story. Most people just grow them to stop the Peregrinos from trespassing on their land.

His final claim to fame, this is St Juan not the big Wan that he used to help the childless couples, was his architectural prowess. He did a fine job on the church, what our Simon caught on film, and on the equinoxes (spring and autumn) at 5pm, the rays of the setting sun light up the capital depicting the scene of the annunciation. Instead of it highlighting the Angel Gabriel as usually happens it focusses on the Virgin Mary, thus transmitting the idea of fecundity and life. I’m not saying he was a horny old devil he may have been deeply religious, they’re not mutually exclusive, but spooky or what. Its such a shame that we were ahead of schedule as tomorrow is the day and if Si and his wee South Korean girl friend had wanted to have babies – September 22nd would’ve been the time!

After a look around the church – which was marvellous almost as good as Redecilla but I’ve no time for star ratings on churches – we bashed on to Ages and then our home tonight – Atapuerca.

Its just leapt to the **** premium rating of Azofra. 30 euro for a twin room plus ensuite. It was 7 euro for the basic fare which we’ve been told is great too but the space on offer was too much to refuse. We also get a private lounge and kitchen for ignoring as there’s a Michelin guide restaurant with a 10 euro menu we like the look of.

To be honest we’re spoilt for choice tonight. Ever since the found the fosillised remains of my great Uncle Ata, this place is jumping.

Bueno Appetito mi amigos

Atapuerca the Video!

While Si writes his blog on the free internet site a the Exposion Anciennes Archiologie – I watched the free video.

Their first find was the oldest huminiod in Europe at 1m years ago.

Then they found the first ritual burial place at 300-500,000 years ago. We’re not talking 1,2 or 3 but 27 bodies – the world’s first Jamestown – here in Atapuerca!

It was amazing the way they pieced all the bodies together and discovered their cause of death. The local community must’ve decided that they should bury them for whatever reason – even back then the dead were social outcasts.

One had died of an infection in his jaw which had come about through eating a bad piece of rabbit, wolf or whatever. It spread to his jaw through his gums.

The first advert for regular check ups with your dentist too.

The others had various ailments – including an ear infection that had swollen whatever – the pathology was fascinating but about as memorable as one of Si’s descriptions of his ailments and the most likely cure.

Talking of Simon – he’s out for a fag just now so we can talk all we like. He had the lamb tonight, I the butterfly chicken. We both agreed the michelin guide was a good guide for here. Best meal since los Arcos.

I’ve gone for fruit for pudding. Today’s was melon. It gotta be worth an ounce or two on his custard!

We’re having a great time, friday nights fiesta night and tomorrow its hotel time. That means a real good session, only 20km walking, maybe a shave and a bath!

One more was all we could take such was the fun, we also have to watch the Big Fella’s bladder – he only gets up 5 times if he’s in bed by 9.30.

Well it is 30 euro – and we want our money’s worth. Clean pillow cases so Simon doesn’t need to use his.

Did I tell you about the plaque I saw today?

It’ll wait…..